Welcome to your new greyhound
So you’re bringing a greyhound home, welcome to the cult! We’re kidding, but also you really are about to embark on a whole new chapter.
But luckily, you won’t be doing it alone. This guide has been put together by the Houndy Helpers team, each of whom has at some point been in your exact position, welcoming a noodle horse into their home for the first time and wondering where on earth to start.
We know the questions we get asked frequently, what we were told, what we wish we were told, and if none of this fits your query then please don’t hesitate to get in touch, it’s what we’re here for.
The Gentle Dog Groomer is a close friend to Houndy Helpers (and a houndy owner herself!) and has kindly provided some upkeep tips so your snoot stays as healthy and happy for as long as possible with you!
Sun Protection
“Particularly important down here in New Zealand and Aussie, sunscreen is not only crucial for us in summer it's also crucial for our dogs! They can get skin cancers too 🥺
I have added a link of a great dog friendly, lick safe sunscreen (unaffiliated). There are other brands available of course but just to give you a recommendation this is the brand that my dogs wear.
The sunscreen needs to be applied to those areas with little fur coverage (inside of ears, bridge of the nose (not nasal plate), belly's etc)
If you can see skin, that's where you need to put it. If using the linked sun screen, a little bit of this stuff goes a long way so you don't need a thick layer and it's also a good idea to reapply a couple of times throughout the day just like you would with your own sunscreen to make sure they are sun safe along with you ❤️🌞🐾”
Nail Care
“Depending on your hounds lifestyle - how they exercise and how much walking/running around they do and what type of ground they run around on (asphalt, grass, beach etc.) I usually recommend trimming nails about once a month.
You can always check with your vet/local groomers whether they need doing, I ask my clients to send a close up photo of their paws so I can see whether there is enough to trim back or if they might want to wait a few more weeks. You may be lucky and only have the dew claws (thumb nails on the sides of the paw) that end up getting long if you and your hound have a very active lifestyle.
It's super important to keep their nails in check to prevent breakage of the nails which is extremely painful for them and also so they can walk comfortably on their paws. When nails are long it affects how they walk and can become very painful.
If you aren't confident doing your hounds nails please don't do it, get a professional to keep them in check, if their nails are accidentally taken too short, they bleed and it can take a long time to stop the bleeding if you don't have anything to help it stop bleeding at home, it is painful and can cause your hound to be very scared to have them done in future making it a very stressful experience for all involved. So play it safe and have an experienced vet or groomer trim them if you are nervous. You could even ask them to teach you so you get more confident with it if that's ultimately what you want to do.
I also do once a month Saturday nail trims specifically for hounds so get in touch if you are in Auckland and interested in me being your hounds nail tech 🤭❤️”
Bathing & Shampoo
“Hounds should ideally be washed once a month if possible to help loosen any dead fur on them and also to help remove dead skin cells etc.
It's best to use a gentle, hydrating shampoo if possible. I personally use Smith and Burtons Nourishing or Hydrating shampoo and conditioner on mine but anything gentle is fi ne and you don't have to use a conditioner - I'm a groomer so I have all that stuff in my home salon but it's not something you must have.
It is also important to wash your hound (and any dog for that matter) twice, so roughly rinse the fi rst shampoo off and apply again. The fi rst wash gets rid of most of the dirt etc but the second wash makes sure your hound is actually clean and the benefi ts in the shampoo can do their job moisturising the skin etc.
It's very important to rinse the second shampoo off very well so it doesn't cause any unnecessary irritation/itchiness from shampoo still being on the skin - so give a good gentle massage as you rinse. You will know when it's rinsed out properly by rubbing your hand in a few areas to make sure it's not still 'sudsy' looking on them.
If your dog has skin issues, try a shampoo specifi c for sensitive skin or seek advice from your vet. Depending on the cause of the skin issues, your hound may require medicated shampoo to help with these symptoms or to prevent the problem from getting really bad. If you do have a hound on medicated shampoo it's super important to follow the directions for leaving it on the skin for however many minutes it states as the leaving it on the skin for a certain amount of time is how the shampoo does it's job. If you just put it on then rinse straight away you are basically just throwing money away and it won't have any benefi t to your hounds skin.
I also find if your hound will let you use a dryer on them, this is such a helpful way of getting rid of their loose fur, the hounds I have slowly introduced to being blow dried absolutely love the drying part, just make sure you gently introduce the dryer as not to scare them.
I start with the nozzle off on the lowest setting so it's not as noisy and powerful and as they get comfy with that, you can increase the settings making sure to watch how your hound is coping (if they freak out obviously stop!)
It's also a good idea to use your hand as a guide as to where you will be putting the dryer next (I also use this technique when bathing with a shower head it's really helpful giving them a warning as to what to expect next,) so they don't get a fright and start the dryer on them somewhere that isn't directly in front of them, so on their side or even at the base of their tail, from experience they absolutely love the feeling of it massaging their lower back and then slowly work your way around.
Any area they aren't happy with - don't pressure them. Always giving a little warning with your hand like a gentle rub as to where to expect the dryer next. If they just will not tolerate it, obviously a towel dry is fine 🙂 Enjoy the water crazies!"
Coat Care
“Greyhounds don't need hair trims but they do require regular brushing with a soft brush every couple of days. This will help with any shedding around the house (daily brushing is best if they
are shedding their kennel coats or if you notice they are shedding quite a lot with change of season etc).
You can use a rubber type mit/rubber brush, soft bristle brush or (what I personally use,) an equigroomer which does an awesome job of getting all the loose hair off.
If you do purchase one of these equigroomers just make sure you aren't digging it into their skin and you are gliding it over the top.
I have attached a link for them (unaffiliated) as they are the best I have found so far as a professional groomer for removing loose fur!"
Dry Skin & Paws
“Some areas on hounds are prone to getting dry - such as the tops of their noses, paws etc. so having some sort of balm to prevent this or to help hydrate the area is great.
There is a nice product by 'the Waggery' called 'Greyt Paws' which I have and I have included (unaffiliated) but any paw balm is fine as long as it's lick safe (most of them should be just be sure to check ingredients).
Hounds pads get quite dry or sensitive so a paw balm is great to have on hand. I actually put paw balm on my hound most days as an evening routine before bed to keep her paw pads nice and hydrated and to prevent corns from appearing.
The more supple/hydrated you keep their pads the better chance you have of keeping their paws happy and healthy.”
Dental Care
“Hounds are well known to suffer from teeth and gum issues so prevention is key! To prevent your hound from pain and suffering, DAILY dental teeth cleaning is a must.
It will also save you thousands of dollars in vet visits and teeth extractions.
I have outlined below a few really good dental items to have at home but mainly dog toothpaste and a finger brush/soft tooth brush is the most important thing.
It's also important you only use dog safe toothpaste as the human stuff is toxic to dogs.
Virbac enzymatic toothpaste is a great dog toothpaste and you can start out initially getting used to this by using it on your finger in their mouth and using your finger like a tooth brush on their teeth and gums, then when they get used to that sensation, move onto a finger brush or a SOFT toothbrush. Always giving lots of praise and positive reinforcement during via treats if necessary. Using circular motions with the brush, focusing on the outer surfaces if possible, it can be tricky
to get every single tooth but the great thing about the enzymatic paste is it still works inside the mouth even if you can't quite cover all teeth, just do the best you can.
Only doing it once a week/month etc is pointless as the bacteria will have already built up over time by then and started to do damage.
Regular vet dentals under anesthesia are also important to make sure your hounds mouth is properly being looked after, your vet will be able to advise on the frequency of this as it all depends on the severity of how bad the teeth and gums are. Dental health just like in humans can cause a lot of other health problems in dogs so not doing anything with their teeth you are putting them at a higher risk of other systemic infections like to the heart, kidney and liver it's not just their teeth and gums we are trying to help with teeth cleaning.
You can also get water additives, dental wipes, dental chew toys/treats etc these specifically help to scrub the teeth and remove tartar build up which in turn help keep the gums healthy. Specific dental diets are great for dogs who already have teeth and gum issues, your vet can let you know if your hound is at the stage they need something like this. You can use chews and daily teeth brushing as prevention. Yes it may seem annoying to brush daily but trust me it will save your hound from pain in the long run and will even prolong their lives (let alone the thousands in vet bills).
Bones are also great for teeth but just make sure you are nearby when giving your hound anything to chew on just to be safe.”
Greyhounds are full of special quirks that will raise an eyebrow at first, so buckle up and get ready! It’s a weird, beautiful thing.
The Greyhound Freeze
If your greyhound doesn’t want to walk somewhere, you will experience the greyhound freeze. Despite their weight rarely exceeding 40kg, you would be forgiven for thinking they weigh hundreds of kilos if they decide that they don’t want to move. A remarkable phenomenon, really. They freeze up and anchor themselves. If we were more skilled scientists rather than just passionate houndy advocates, we’re sure we could prove they alter the molecules around them to reinforce their stance.
This can be common during their settling in period when things are still making them nervous and they’re not keen to leave the house or then enter the house (Schrodinger’s greyhound?) but can also happen in the middle of a walk if they decide they’re tired.
Not all greyhounds do the freeze, but enough have done so that the phenomenon has a name so…
It can be fixed by carrying them. Some will ‘reset’ and walk again after a short time in air-jail but others will decide that flying is much more their style and will request a taxi-ride in your arms all the way home.
“GSOD”
Greyhounds are often praised for being quiet dogs - and they are. They’re far less likely to bark at home than a lot of other breeds, which makes the GSOD all the more dramatic.
GSOD or the “Greyhound Scream Of Death” is the high-pitched wail they let out when something minorly inconveniences or surprises them. Wet leaf stuck to paws? GSOD. A pillow falls on them while they’re sleeping? GSOD. Their lead brushes across their bum unexpectedly? GSOD.
It’s usually sharp, short, loud and over as quickly as it starts.
Fluffy Coat
Some houndies will come to you with a fluffy, molting coat. This is called ‘kennel coat’ and it’s very common in dogs that live in kennel environments. Expect a lot of ‘confetti’ while they shed this and reveal their house-coat - which tends to be a lot sleeker. We recommend reading the coat care section in The Gentle Dog Groomer’s Upkeep section of this guide (page X) if you’re helping them with their fluffy fur.
Bald Thighs
A lot of houndies will come to you with bald thighs. It’s known to some as ‘GPB’ or Greyhound Pattern Baldness and is perfectly normal in the breed. Sometimes the fur will grow in over time, and sometimes you can affectionately pat your little plucked-chicken and know that’s just them.
Roaching
Named for the skewed legs of a dead cockroach laying on its back, the greyhound roach is much more endearing than its deceased insect namesake.
When a hound is particularly comfy, warm, safe and snoozy they will lay on their backs and splay their legs up, out, all around and above them. (If you’re lucky, you’ll get the coveted tongue ‘blep’ at the same time, the ultimate show of cute ridiculousness)
The Greyhound Lean
The greyhound lean is when a houndy leans their bodyweight into you. It’s a sign of contentment and it’s thought to be their version of a casual hug.
There’s a misconception that floats around that greyhounds are aloof or not affectionate, which isn’t necessarily true. In truth, greyhounds often are very affectionate but it won’t always look how you expect. A lot of people have learnt ‘dog affection’ to be of the more labrador-esque kind, full of licks and headbutts (which frankly we can’t get enough of either.) The greyhound lean is one of the most common ways that they’re saying they like you in their space right now.
Many people comment on ‘the greyhound lean’ when encountering content houndies for the first time. Not all houndies do it, but an awful lot do. Some quietly tuck up to you, and some throw caution to the wind and give you a good portion of their body weight to handle.
Chittering
Some greyhounds will ‘chitter’ or ‘chatter’. Depending on their teeth, it may make an audible noise or it may just be a visual wobbly chin.
It is usually a positive thing, indicating they’re feeling particularly content or excited. As it's a ‘high emotion’ sign it can come out when they’re stressed or nervous too, but you’ll most often see it when they’re particularly enjoying a good scratch or stretching after a nap.
Nitting/Cobbing
Nitting is when your hound 'nibbles' skin or fur with their front teeth in a gentle action. When performed on themselves this can be simple grooming or clearing of 'nits' but is a real sign of affection and bonding when directed toward their favourite person. As with chittering, you may experience this when cuddling or otherwise being in close quarters.
Generally, hounds are careful not to pinch skin but can occasionally catch a small piece of human. This may be misinterpreted and cause alarm but that won't be your hound's intention! This is sometimes known as 'cobbing' as the motion resembles eating a cob of corn.
‘Bitey Face’
A common greyhound game is affectionately dubbed ‘Bitey Face’ by a lot of owners. It can look a bit intense at first but it’s a fun thing that greyhounds will do, particularly with other hounds.
Basically they’ll open their mouths wide like crocodiles and gently grab the other dog's face, or even do quick, playful nips. They will also often accompany this with a playful groaning noise which can be mistaken for a growl if you don’t know Bitey Face.
Watch for positive, playful body language (play bows and sneezing usually), that can communicate the difference between a dog playing Bitey Face and a dog that really doesn’t want to play Bitey Face.
Sleep Startle
Sleep startling is an involuntary, defensive reflex that some greyhounds have. It means that dogs that are sleep-startlers will often experience a momentary burst of "aggression" when they’re awoken suddenly.
We’ve put “aggression” in quotation marks as while this is what it looks like, and it can cause injury, the dog is usually not responsible or even aware of it. It occurs in a similar state to sleep-walking, and if you see a dog sleep-startle you can sometimes almost see them ‘snap’ out of it almost instantly.
A sleep-startler hound will snarl, snap, bark or advance without discretion at being awoken by touch, which can mean for these hounds their own dedicated sleeping space is much more important.
It’s not known what exactly causes sleep-startle but it is thought that the kennel conditions can contribute to it as they become accustomed to sleeping in their own space and never get touched while they rest. They almost always get awoken by noise, so it's a new sensation for them. If you went to sleep in your locked bedroom and got awoken by somebody touching you - you too would be pretty startled. You would likely throw your hands up and yell.
It’s also more common in dogs that fall into deeper cycles of sleep, and is possibly seen more in greyhounds seeing as they sometimes sleep with their eyes open so you don’t always know when they’re fully asleep.
Your hound may grow out of sleep startle, or it may not. It's important you don't punish your hound for sleep-startle instances, even if they’ve startled or hurt someone as they simply don’t know they’ve done it. They usually ‘wake up’ wondering what all the human commotion is about.
Always wake a sleep-startler with noise before touch, give them a moment or two to become coherent. You could take it further and protect yourself and others by teaching them a command or cue to get up. This means that if they’ve stolen a spot on the couch and someone wants to sit down safely you can facilitate that, and it also means once they’re standing and paying attention you absolutely know for certain they’re awake!
If you want advice about sleep startle, get in touch with your rehomer or with Houndy Helpers as it can be a distressing thing to navigate alone.
Vocalisations
Is it an ambulance? Is it a siren? No… it’s your noodle horse.
Greyhound vocalisations can surprise fosterers and adopters at first because in general, greyhounds are on the quieter end of the dog spectrum, but when they want attention… they’re very good at getting it.
‘Rooing’ is one of the more affectionate quirks some greyhounds will practice, which is a happy kind of yodelling howl they’ll do when a human gets home or when they’re trying to instigate play.
A step up from the ‘roo’ is the actual, fully formed howl. Some will happily join their humans in a synchronized family jam session if someone starts singing, and others like to carry out their sacred duty as good citizens by amplifying sirens of emergency services passing by. It’s what any certified Good Boy would do, right?
When greyhounds do bark, full disclosure, those chests hold some mighty big athlete lungs so for such a svelte and refined creature they can have some surprising depth to their bark. Be ready the first time they find their yelling voice! (Note: This applies only to awake barking. Dreamy barks sound like little chirpy squeaks, almost like a guinea pig, and must be coo’ed over appropriately without rousing them.)
And last but not least, you’ve got the whiners. Some greyhounds will whine, cry or breathe-in-a-judging-manner at you when they want something. What do they want? Probably food, a walk, a friend, or your never ending devotion and attention.
Sitting
You may have noticed by this point that greyhounds have a slightly different anatomy to some dogs and this affects their ability to sit, too.
While some greyhounds can and do sit, it’s not as instinctual and effortless as it is for other dogs. Their muscular thighs house tight hamstrings built for speed and coupled with their deep chests, it makes for a rather un-ergonomic sitting shape.
You can train a greyhound to sit and some do so happily (particularly if they’re on softer surfaces that can cushion the parts of them that become pointy) but for resting purposes, you’ll far more likely see them plop down fully or even do a hover-sit.
Some of the houndies will do a ‘sphynx’ pose with dramatic legs splayed in front of their body and this will usually be met with fancy ‘ooh’s and ‘ahh’s in public.
Greyhound gas
Beyond knowing about the possibility of bloat (covered in the anatomy & health section, Page X) greyhound gas is part of the houndy experience. Some owners (ie. me, the writer breaking the fourth wall,) report their hounds standing over them demanding neck rubs in order to help them pass burps.
Gas from the other end - while not actually fatal - may sometimes feel like it should be. God speed when you discover this.
Lifting Your Hound
Whether they’re recovering from surgery, refuse to do certain stairs, they do greyhound freeze or (in some cases,) they decide they like being lifted and fake not being able to get on things, at some stage, you’ll possibly have to lift your hound.
The easiest way for both you and the hound, is to pick them up from the side. Put one arm behind them, tucking in under their bum/thighs and the other arm between their front legs with your hand on their ribs on the side furthest from you. When you lift, their legs will naturally pull closer together and their back will arch a bit. Some hounds stick their neck out really long and straight like a goose.
This means you support the two densest parts of their body - their chest and thighs - with your arms.
Retractable leads
We strongly discourage the use of retractable leads for hounds - they can get up to speed in just 4-5 strides and as horrifying as it is to say, their slender necks are no match for the momentum their powerful legs give them and deaths have occurred this way.
Even if the retractable lead is dropped rather than held, or attached to a harness, the lead can retract and tangle their legs, cutting and tripping them. It can spook them more and they struggle and make things worse rather than stopping.
Disclaimer: Greyhound 101 is a peer support resource. The advice given in this section is based on our and our community members' lived experience of greyhound ownership. It should not replace professional advice and veterinary care should always be sought if you have any concerns.
