Welcome to your new greyhound
So you’re bringing a greyhound home, welcome to the cult! We’re kidding, but also you really are about to embark on a whole new chapter.
But luckily, you won’t be doing it alone. This guide has been put together by the Houndy Helpers team, each of whom has at some point been in your exact position, welcoming a noodle horse into their home for the first time and wondering where on earth to start.
We know the questions we get asked frequently, what we were told, what we wish we were told, and if none of this fits your query then please don’t hesitate to get in touch, it’s what we’re here for.
3:3:3
“3:3:3” is something you’ll often hear rehoming organisations talking about. It refers to the three main ‘stages’ of a greyhound settling into their new environment.
It represents the idea of the first 3 days, 3 weeks, and 3 months.
They are broad and general guides, as every dog is different, but it is a good reminder that in a human-paced world with deadlines and clocks, these dogs sometimes need a little patience. The dog you bring home on the first day won’t necessarily be the dog you have a while later.
3 days to Decompress
Your hound has just had a huge life change and each handles this differently. Some may be clingy, some may want their space, but it is in this period it’s critical to allow them to feel safe and decompress.
This will be when you see your hound at their most vulnerable. They might pant or pace a lot and not want much to do with anyone. Rest assured, this will lessen.
It is in this period you might notice your hound testing boundaries, working out where they sit in the household dynamic, and even trying to escape or hide.
Our tips:
- Read our section further in (Page X) about the first night and set up.
- Do not force interaction or overwhelm them, as much as you may want to. Let them decide how much they’re comfortable with.
- Ensure they have a safe space (often a crate.) It seems counter-intuative, we know, to get a new dog then ‘lock them away’ but this can bring a hound back ‘into’ their body and regulate themselves.
- Maintain a strong but calm presence and introduce boundaries and routine.
- Be kind to your dog, and be kind to yourself. This is a big transition for you both.
3 Weeks to Learn Routine
Within the first three weeks, you should start seeing your hound’s personality starting to peek through.
While things are still new, your new hound will start to understand your routine and dynamic more. They will get accustomed to the routine and should start to settle into their new environment and create bonds with you.
This should mean:
- Less crying
- Better sleeping
- Better eating
- Better toileting
This will also be the time when behavioral traits may start to show, so remain consistent and vigilant so any boundary tests are quickly and calmly communicated.
Our tips:
- Start taking them for walks, slow at first, let them go at their pace and don’t force them. This is expanding their world and it’s scary but exciting! The muzzle is useful in this stage until you know where to trust them more.
- Lots of praise - greyhounds are sensitive so if you’re working on training them, the best chance of success is to use positive reinforcement.
- Encourage their curiosity about things they may not have encountered much of yet. Soft toys, stairs, human couches, non-greyhound friends.
The Puppy Blues
The so-called “Puppy Blues” (even though most houndy rehomes are adult dogs,) is a common period of emotional turmoil new owners can find themselves in.
It’s important to remember that while you are guiding the hound through a big transition, you are also experiencing it with them and it’s normal to feel emotions at all ends of the spectrum.
If you find yourself feeling consistently low, second-guessing your decision and wondering if you’ve made the right choice, you are not alone. You can also feel immense guilt as you watch your hound starting to enjoy their time with you and start blossoming, while you still feel trepidation.
Many owners, even those that are well-researched and firm in their choice to adopt, can experience this.
If you’re in the ‘Puppy Blues’ trenches, we recommend:
- Connect with other owners. The hound community is a particularly tight one. The Houndy Helpers team is always happy to speak to you at any stage in your journey without judgement. Your rehoming agency can also help you adjust to these changes, and even third-party forums like the greyhound subreddit can help you feel less alone.
- Google it! It’s easy to catastrophise and think this is a “you problem”, but it’s a well known phenomenon and understanding the process can help.
- Take time outs. Leave your hound in their crate to rest while you go about things you normally would. They will be okay and it will give you reprieve from feeling “on” until it feels more natural. This is also where community can be useful - a friend, family member or other hound owner can step in and watch for an hour or two so you can get some ‘normality.’ (You will possibly even find yourself missing them through this, which can feel confusing. You gotta laugh sometimes at the absurdity of it all!)
- Gently work on the aspects that worry you, but don’t obsess. Sometimes the feelings are generalized, but other times they’re connected to particular parts of the integration. Toileting, other pets etc. If you aren’t in the right emotional place to work on something with your hound, don’t push it, but when you are, do it! It will advance that aspect of their adjustment, strengthen your bond, and give you a feeling of progress.
- Time. Be patient. Be kind to yourself. Sometimes owners don’t even know when the “Puppy Blues” have left until someone asks how they’re doing down the line and realise… it’s all good!
3 Months to Trust
Around the three month mark, you will likely find you’ve settled into life with your hound. They will be recognising you as their family by now, and seeing you as their safe space. You will possibly notice you’ve got a snoot-shaped shadow as you potter around the house, or you’ll see the coveted ‘roach’ (see Common Questions) happening.
During this period, your hound will be starting to understand that they’re actually a pet now and this isn’t just a weird thing they’re getting through. This is home.
They will be starting to understand what’s expected from their toileting and sleep routines. They’ll possibly start waking you up if you sleep past their breakfast time (by even a minute, they can be remarkably punctual!) which - while a bit annoying - is the best way to wake up and is a testament to the fact they feel safe enough to ask things of you.
A lot of owners report that around the three month mark is when the zoomies and play starts. Sometimes this happens earlier, sometimes later, but normally it’s around when a hound starts to feel comfy at their core. Introduce toys (but watch for resource guarding,) and encourage them. Play bows, open mouths and sneezing are all dog body language for ‘I want to play!’ so watch for those!
Our tips:
- Stay the course. Keep working on training and reinforcements.
- Expand their world. If they’re the adventurous type, you could start taking longer, more exploratory walks or take them further from home and meet up with friends. Give them the full doggy experience!
- Enjoy it. You guys are besties now.
The Secret 3: 3 Years to Evolve
3 Days, Weeks and Months are often spoken about and are a well understood general timeline, but sometimes there’s a sort of secret ‘3’ with hounds - 3 years.
After the readjustments, the learning, the emotions, the testing, the transitioning… there’s your hound. People report seeing more and more character starting to sneak out of their hound over time, even over the years. Given their new environment, you’ve allowed them to change and find themselves as a pet over time and grow into what that looks like for them.
3 years down the line, it will be amazing to look back at the dog you brought home versus the dog you have now. Recognize and celebrate that growth!
The First Night
The first night home, both you and your new hound will be at your most alert, so it’s good to be prepared and know what to expect.
The Set Up
You will need some essentials to make this as easy as possible for all;
- A large crate
- A muzzle
- A dog bed
- Water Bowl
- Food Bowl
- Dog Food
- Collar (We recommend Martingale styles, and we work closely with Adventure Doggo for ours, who put proceeds back into animal welfare and rehoming efforts)
- Lead (NOT a retractable lead)
Optional:
- Comfort toy
- Treats (they will argue this is not optional)
- Pet gates for separating areas
- Harness
What to Expect
On your first night home, your hound is going to be confused. It depends on their personality as to whether they will respond to this confusion with curiosity or timidness, but it’s important to read their feelings so as not to push them.
Nervousness
Nervousness in your hound could look like;
- Shaking or quivering
- Pacing
- Panting
- ‘Whale Eyes’ (wide/dilated eyes)
- Very flattened ears (or very alert ears)
- Tail tucked under themselves
- Hesitation to go where you want them to
If they are exhibiting these signs, they need your guidance to bring them back ‘down to earth’ from this heightened state of anxiety. The best way to do this is to provide them with a dedicated ‘safe space’. We recommend setting up their crate somewhere calm, and putting them into it to decompress. It feels weird - we know - getting a dog and wanting to broaden their horizons only to lock them up, but they have known kennels and crates throughout their lives so far, so it's a familiar comfort to them.
If you aren’t able to crate them, having one room or space that they can retreat to and can be (lovingly) confined will do. Use baby gates, bedding and doors to help create this.
Once they’re calmer in their crate (or dedicated space) they come back into their body a bit, they may clean themselves or start to lay down and rest. Take them for toilet breaks and see if they want to be brave and explore a little after this, or if they want to go back to the crate. That is fine, let them. You want them to have that little bit of agency to begin trusting you.
From their safe space, they will slowly get used to the happenings around them. Your voices, smells, and environment. Then, when they’re ready, they will start to interact with them. This may not happen on this first night (See 3:3:3 ) so don’t feel disheartened.
On the first night, your hound may cry or whine. It’s also quite possible they may have toileting accidents. Try to take your hound out to the toilet before you go to bed for the night to give them the best chance of making it through, and offer rewards for good toileting. Don’t punish them for accidents, especially this early on, just quietly and thoroughly clean it so they don’t continue to smell and associate the spot with toilet time.
Some find that their hound prefers to be nearer to them and that lessens any crying. In their kennels, they had their own space but were amongst other dogs, complete with their noises, smells, snores and presence, so this crying is often down to loneliness.
If you feel comfortable with it, moving their crate or ‘space’ into or nearer your room, it can lessen their whining. If this isn’t feasible (you've got existing pets in your room that won’t like it, you don’t want dogs in the bedroom etc.) another option is to have a white noise machine or radio playing quietly for them.
Some owners dust off old baby monitors or dog-cams and set them up so they can check on the dog throughout the night without disturbing them. It’s certainly not a must-have, but if you’re nervous it can offer good peace of mind.
Some hounds will sleep through, upside down with their legs in their air, farts blasting and tongue hanging out and you don’t have to worry at all. Every hound is different.
There may be parts of your house that your hound needs to navigate and don’t know how. This is most often glass doors/windows and stairs - neither of which your hound will have much experience with.
To avoid any head-on collisions with glass, we recommend putting some masking or coloured tape across at their head height, so they have a more visual indicator that there’s something solid there. The last thing you want is your dog thinking there are secret force fields in their new environment. Once they learn the secrets of the doors, you can remove the tape.
Stairs can sometimes take more time (and a lot of bribery,) to master. If you have hard-floor steps, it can be useful to put down sticky carpet mats, at least while they're learning. A lot of coaxing, patience and treats will really be the trick long term for this but in the short term, you may need to learn how to pick up and carry your hound in the most comfortable way possible (see Common Questions).
Anatomy & Health
There’s no denying greyhounds are a bit different to a lot of other dogs (see: LONG) so understanding how your hound differs physically can help you.
Parts of your hound
Coat
Greyhounds’ coats tend to be extremely soft. It may have been your first comment upon patting one and it will be the first comment from many a stranger in your future.
While they’re short haired and don’t require ‘grooming’ - brushing your hounds coat can alleviate the worst of the shedding and keep them in top condition. A rubber mit or brush is best on their sensitive skin.
Balding: It’s very common for hounds to have balding on their hind legs, thighs, tummy and chest. Some even call it GPB: ‘Greyhound Pattern Baldness’. This may grow in over time, and it may not, but don’t worry, it’s very normal.
Fluffy: Many hounds will come to you with ‘kennel coat’. This is a fluffier, denser coat that a lot of dogs (not just hounds) develop when they spend a lot of time living in kennel conditions. You may notice a lot of molting in the first few weeks as they shed this. Their new coat will usually be shinier and smoother.
Dandruff: Dandruff is common in hounds. Some find this is more common after a bath, others find it means it's time for their hounds bath! Either way, the most commonly recommended remedy is classic coconut oil. More info on this (Page X)
Hypoallergenic: A common myth, which you’ll likely work out quickly once you find their special confetti on your clothes. While they aren’t hypoallergenic, they are less likely to trigger allergies as they don’t have an undercoat.
Skin
Greyhounds have very thin skin! This means they are more prone to cuts and tears. It also means that if the sunlight hits them just right, they have a funny see-through ‘window’ on their back legs where you can see glowing red veins!
Greyhound owner fun tip: The softest skin on your greyhound is the blobby bit that feels like a Blancmange between their front legs. In time, this may become your chosen stress-ball.
Eyes
Caution: Your hound will use these as weapons to lovingly stare into your soul and hypnotise you into feeding them cheese.
Pannus is a condition that some hounds have. It’s very manageable with eye-drops (and very cool sunglasses for some hounds to prevent further UV degradation). It’s also called ‘Chronic Superficial Keratitis’ and it affects the cornea. It will first be seen as a cloudy or pink spot on the side ‘whites’ of their eyes. From this, it can become darker and larger and can cause blindness if not managed in the long term. This condition is also common in German Shepherds.
Teeth
With great snoot comes great responsibility… in dental form. Greyhounds are known to have bad teeth. It comes with the territory for dogs with longer palates, but it’s also genetic. Expect to go for yearly dentals with an experienced vet (more on this in Surgery & Anaesthesia), but you can manage between these with various tools and techniques.
Body
People sometimes struggle to ascertain what a healthy weight is for a greyhound, given their naturally slim build. Whereas on a lot of dogs, several visible ribs would be a worry, it’s a sign of a healthy hound. A little spine and hip protrusion is fine too, but not too much!
Heart
Greyhounds have larger hearts than a lot of other breeds. They tend to be around 10-15% bigger than other dogs of similar size. If a vet is not particularly versed in the breed, it can alarm them at first! This is due to their ‘sprint’ anatomy, the bigger heart allows faster and stronger blood pumping to get that speed they’re known for. (We also reckon it means they have extra love!)
Blood
Greyhounds have great blood! They’re universal donors, matching most other dogs. A high percentage of them have “DEA 1.1 negative” blood that’s naturally higher in red blood cells, hemoglobin, hematocrit, total protein, and creatinine than other breeds. It’s like blood concentrate!
Occasionally, we’ll post on our pages when there’s an urgent case at a vet and they’ve reached out for donors in their area. They love getting hounds in as not only is it a likely match, but hounds tend to be used to handling and so behave beautifully (and of course are usually rewarded for their efforts!)
But one of things that makes them excellent donors - their reduced ability to clot - can make some surgeries a little more risky. A vet with greyhound experience will mostly likely be prepared to use transexamic acid during surgery to increase clot strength and make sure there are fewer issues with prolonged bleeding. If you’re worried, it’s okay to discuss this with your vet before the procedure. See 'Clotting' below.
Tummy
Greyhounds are sensitive in nature, and often in tummy too. Try to stay consistent on food, as tummy upsets can have…uncomfortable consequences for all parties involved. If your hound is a more sensitive one then smaller meals 2-3 times a day as opposed to bigger ones 1-2 times a day should help. Avoid exercise after eating.
Paws
Greyhounds have weird feet. They’re lovely, like every other part of them, but they are definitely different. Like most other ‘different’ parts of their anatomy, it’s down to being speedy. Their feet are longer and narrower than most breeds, with the 4 toe pads almost stacked in a grid in front of the main pad. If you’re a fan of the ‘frito foot’ phenomenon, rest assured, this weird shape doesn’t affect their frito factories.
Corns are common in hounds due to limited padding and high-pressure (you’ll know what this means as soon as one point-load stands on your leg to get closer to a snack). Corns are painful for your hound, and should be examined by a vet ASAP. There are lots of greyhound-specific shoes to help prevent them. (Hunnyboots and Snooties Booties being two of the popular ones.)
Common Health Concerns
Greyhounds are one of the oldest dog breeds in the world, and have largely been bred for performance over looks so thankfully, they are quite healthy as far as purebred dogs go. This does not mean, however, that they are exempt from health conditions and some do tend to turn up as a predisposition.
Pannus
Pannus is a chronic progressive disease of the canine cornea that can lead to blindness if it’s not treated. Thankfully, it is very treatable with eye drops.
Also called “Chronic Superficial Keratitis” it will most often be diagnosed between 2-5 years of age. It’s an auto-immune disease, so the cause is coming from inside the body rather than a pathogen.
If your hound has Pannus, you have not done something wrong. It is genetically inherited, and is more common in certain bloodlines and breeds. It’s actually most common in German Shepherds, but has a more notable presence in Collies, Poodles, Dachshunds and Greyhounds as well.
Pannus will first start as a milky or pink raised lesion on the whites of your dogs eyes (most usually toward the outer sides of their head,) but will most likely be noticed a bit later when those lesions start to darken, flatten and look like ‘freckles’. The third eyelid can appear inflamed too.
As it progresses, the brown pigment ‘spreads’ more over the surface of the eyes or could develop a greyish pink ‘scar-tissue’. If you look closely, you might even see small blood vessels growing onto the eye surface.
While it’s not curable, eye drops can significantly slow the progression of the disease, and are given daily. You can also protect the hounds eyes from flare-ups and irritation by getting them some (extremely cool) sunglasses (RexSpecs and Doggles are two well-known makers.)
Oral Hygiene
Listen, everyone’s gotta have a flaw, and for greyhounds, that’s their teeth. Expect stinky breath and tartar build up, but stave it off as long as possible with a variety of techniques;
- Brushing. You can get finger brushes if you prefer, as well as meat-flavoured enzymic toothpaste. Delicious, we know…
- Dental treats like greenies, frozen veggies, or frozen chicken necks
- Dental-specific kibble types
- Enzymic additives for their water
Corns
Corns, (AKA Paw Pad Keratoma) are small, hard and very painful growths that can form on your hounds paw pads. They are dense spots of keratin overgrowth that become almost conical in shape. Imagine a sharp little stone or a lego in your shoe, except you can’t take it off.
Corns are common in greyhounds due to their anatomy. What makes them fast and efficient also makes them more prone to forming them than other breeds.
Greyhounds have what’s referred to as a ‘hare foot’ shape - much longer and less padded than other dogs' feet. The lack of padding and the pressure this creates can form corns.
If you notice your hound limping, licking or if their paw pads appear irritated or swollen, this can be indicative of a corn and you should get them to a vet.
Corns can be removed by the vet (by either hulling, surgery, topical medications or foot soaks), and pain relief can be implemented, but you can also work preventatively. Supportive boots that add ‘padding’ are a fashion-forward and very effective way to prevent them. Hunny Boots and Snooties
Booties are two well-known hound-specific brands but there are many online corners that offer options.
Osteosarcoma
Nobody likes the ‘C’ word, but unfortunately it has to be addressed. Osteosarcoma (or OSA) is a bone cancer that greyhounds have a higher risk of than other breeds. It is the most common bone cancer in greyhounds.
It will usually manifest as an aggressive, painful tumor in their limbs. Watch for sudden lameness, swelling, or lethargy (more than their signature leisurely napping). Vets will be able to diagnose using X-ray usually as it has a distinct ‘moth-eaten’ appearance.
While treatment options are available, it’s a very serious diagnosis. Amputation or aggressive therapy are the common approaches and can be effective in prolonging their lives, but not guaranteed.
Early diagnosis will always yield better results, so knowing your hounds’ ‘normal’ is the best defense.
Acidosis
While nothing can bring as much joy as a greyhound zoomie, there can be too much of a good thing. Like everyone, greyhounds need to ease into activity to keep themselves safe.
If your hound has been living the pet life then springs back into athlete mode suddenly, this can cause muscle to start breaking down. This is also known as 'Tied Up' or Exertional Rhabdomyolysis.
Some things to look out for include:
- Sudden changes in a dog's movement
- Excessive panting
- Shaking
- Humped back which can be tender to the touch
- Sensitivity in hind quarters
- Unsteady on their feet/unable to settle
- Red/Dark brown urine
If you notice this, you should act quickly: try and cool down greyhound with lukewarm (not cold) water, offer them sips of water to drink, and get in touch with your vet straight away.
Choosing a vet
As you have probably gathered by now, greyhounds have a lot of physiological differences to other breeds of dog. This is why it’s recommended that you build a relationship with a vet that you trust and who knows greyhound bodies. Asking in the Houndy Helpers online communities is one of the best ways to find one in your area.
After Hours Vet services
As much as we don't like to think about it, or feel like we're tempting fate, accidents do happen and not always during your regular vet's opening hours. Taking a bit of time to prepare can make all the difference. This can be as simple as making sure you're aware of the after hour vet services in your area and where they're located.
As most emergency vet clinics like you to call ahead, it can be a good idea to keep some numbers in your phone in case you need to call en route. There's nothing worse than searching the net on your mobile when you're verging on panic mode over your baby!
Luckily, most emergency vets and vet nurses have a fairly solid understanding of greyhound physiology, so you'll be in safe hands once you get there. While they do turn out to be more expensive than standard vets, they should be clear about what course of treatment they recommend and an approximate cost before they start. If you’re not sure about either, it’s okay to ask for clarification.
And don't forget, they frequently see people and animals at their lowest; if you need to take a minute to breathe or cry (or both), they know how to give you all the space and kindness you need.
Surgery & anaesthesia
Touched on briefly in the ‘blood’ section earlier, anaesthesia is a bit different - and a bit more risky - in hounds. It’s good to discuss with your vet prior to any medical procedures to ensure they’re versed in greyhounds unique anatomy.
Barbiturates (Sleepy drugs)
Barbiturates are sedative medications commonly used by vets in anaesthesia, but greyhounds lack the right enzyme activity in the liver to metabolise them the way other breeds do. This means that alternative sedation methods like propofol or alfaxalone and inhalation gases are often used over the traditional, older barbiturate methods.
Barbiturates (thiopentone) are usually injected intravenously, and after a time they dissipate and distribute to the animals’ muscles, fat and liver. Greyhounds’ famously low body fat and the lowered liver activity (Cytochrome P450 enzymes to be precise which are 2-3 times lower than other breeds), means that the drug takes longer to metabolise, leading to a longer, rougher recovery time with elevated risks for other post-operative complications and drug interactions.
As the thiopentone binds to the proteins, there will be higher, active levels of the anaesthetic throughout their body. Post-operatively, pain management is often in the form of NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs). These are similar to paracetamol or ibuprofen for humans, but are also protein bound. As they take effect, they can displace the remaining barbiturates from the proteins which in turn, increases their plasma concentration and reamplifies the anaesthetic effect.
Post-Operative Hyperthermia
Our sweet, sensitive snoots can be a little highly-strung sometimes which can lead to Post-operative hyperthermia. Sometimes mistaken for Malignant Hyperthermia (also possible but much less common), post-operative hyperthermia is characterized by body-temperature spikes as they come out of anesthesia and become stressed. As they stress, their muscular physique starts to produce excess heat. Vets can alleviate this with certain medications and active cooling measures (fans, cool compresses etc.)
Malignant Hyperthermia
Note that this is rare, but is a known genetic hereditary disorder known in greyhounds. It happens in response to inhaled anesthetics and causes sudden muscle rigidity, very high temperature spikes (over 41 degrees), tachycardia, excess CO2 production and acidosis due to uncontrolled calcium release in muscles. It is fatal if left untreated BUT it is very treatable with active cooling measures and the right counteractive pharmaceuticals.
Clotting
… Or the lack thereof. The properties that make greyhounds excellent blood donors also make them tricky patients. While they have higher red blood cells (yay!) they have less white blood cells and platelets. White blood cells help to fight infection, while platelets are essential for creating clots.
Some greyhounds will be fine following surgery, though some will have blood-related complications because of this. It can show as severe bruising, bleeding (either external or internal), which can require intervention.
Scary - but manageable if the vet knows what to watch for. It’s thought that greyhounds that suffer from this ‘enhanced fibrinolysis’ do actually form clots, but due to the low platelets those clots break down too quickly. Cyklokapron or tranexamic acid is the drug that many greyhound-savvy vets choose to aid their houndy patients. Some vet practices don’t have this in stock at all times though, so it's a worthy conversation point prior to any surgeries.
If you’re interested in more in depth reading material on these medical considerations, we recommend these resources from the experts.
Disclaimer: Greyhound 101 is a peer support resource. The advice given in this section is based on our and our community members' lived experience of greyhound ownership. It should not replace professional advice and veterinary care should always be sought if you have any concerns.
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